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SUB 200 ll
The SUB 200 II brings DOXA’s dive-watch character into a modern, wearable form. With bold styling, strong legibility and everyday versatility, it is ideal for those who want a sporty DOXA that feels practical, distinctive and easy to wear.
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SUB 200
The SUB 200 offers a classic entry into DOXA’s dive-watch world, combining retro-inspired design with reliable underwater-ready performance. It is a strong choice for those who want vintage charm, everyday usability and authentic SUB character.
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SUB 200T
The SUB 200T delivers a compact, capable take on DOXA’s professional dive-watch DNA. Designed for strong visibility, comfort and practical water resistance, it is ideal for those who want a smaller dive watch with serious personality.
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SUB 300T
The SUB 300T is one of DOXA’s most recognisable tool-watch collections, built around professional dive-watch heritage and bold underwater legibility. With its strong case presence and distinctive dial colours, it suits those who want a rugged diver with unmistakable DOXA identity.
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SUB 300
The SUB 300 reflects DOXA’s historic dive-watch design in a more heritage-led form. With its vintage-inspired shape, professional character and iconic SUB styling, it is ideal for collectors and enthusiasts who want a DOXA rooted in the brand’s underwater legacy.
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Explore our curated selection of DOXA's finest watches
DOXA: Built for the Depths
Swiss dive watches shaped by underwater legibility, professional function and SUB heritage
DOXA’s story began in 1889 in Le Locle, one of Switzerland’s historic watchmaking centres, when Georges Ducommun founded his watchmaking business at just 21 years old. Having started as a watchmaking apprentice at the age of twelve, Ducommun built his reputation through discipline, precision and a determination to create better timepieces. The DOXA name was registered in the early twentieth century, with the word itself coming from the Greek for “glory.”
Before DOXA became famous for dive watches, the brand was already associated with practical innovation. Its early achievements included anti-magnetic watches, international recognition at exhibitions, and the development of an 8-day calibre used in dashboard clocks for automobiles, including Bugatti racing cars.
That origin matters because DOXA was never only about appearance. From the beginning, it was a brand interested in watches and instruments that solved real problems.
After Georges Ducommun’s death in 1936, Jacques Nardin took the helm and continued DOXA’s focus on durability, precision and practical timekeeping. During this period, DOXA expanded beyond classic wristwatches into alarm watches, ring watches, technical designs and models with features such as date pointers and jumping seconds.
In 1957, DOXA also introduced the Grafic, a minimalist square dress watch that showed the brand could create clean, design-led watches as well as technical instruments. But DOXA’s defining chapter was still ahead, and it would take the brand underwater.
In the 1960s, DOXA began focusing seriously on the needs of divers. At a time when much of the world was fascinated by space exploration, DOXA turned its attention to the deep sea. The brand explored underwater readability and developed one of its most recognisable design signatures: the bright orange dial.
The famous orange dial became part of DOXA’s identity because it served a real underwater purpose. It gave the SUB a look that was instantly recognisable, but more importantly, it reflected the brand’s focus on readability when timing mattered.
Over time, DOXA’s dial colours also became part of the brand’s personality. Orange is known as Professional, black as Sharkhunter, silver as Searambler, dark blue as Caribbean, yellow as Divingstar and light blue as Aquamarine. This colour language gives modern DOXA watches a distinctive identity while keeping them connected to the SUB collection’s tool-watch roots.
In 1967, DOXA introduced the SUB 300 at Baselworld. It was designed as a professional-grade dive watch for a wider community of sports divers, with 300 metres of water resistance, a patented rotating bezel and the now-iconic orange dial. DOXA developed the SUB 300 in connection with diving legend Jacques-Yves Cousteau, whose US Divers company later distributed DOXA watches in the Americas.
The SUB 300 also introduced one of DOXA’s most recognisable features: the no-decompression dive bezel, designed to help divers calculate safe underwater time. For today’s buyer, this is what gives DOXA real credibility. Its watches did not borrow dive-watch aesthetics later. They were built around the practical needs of divers from the start.
DOXA’s dive-watch reputation grew quickly. In 1968, the SUB 300T Conquistador arrived as one of the first dive watches equipped with a helium escape valve, designed for professional saturation diving and decompression safety.
DOXA also became connected with military diving. The Swiss Army’s diving corps used DOXA SUB 300T Professional watches after rigorous testing, and the brand also produced the DOXA Army watch with a military-focused design.
These details matter because DOXA’s appeal is not only vintage style. Its identity was built through watches used in serious underwater environments, where readability, timing and reliability genuinely mattered.
DOXA’s reputation extended beyond professional divers. In 1973, author Clive Cussler introduced the adventure character Dirk Pitt, who wore an orange DOXA SUB 300T. This gave DOXA a lasting place in adventure fiction and helped connect the brand with exploration, underwater mystery and rugged independence.
That cultural link works because it feels natural to the brand. DOXA watches already looked and behaved like adventure tools. The orange dial, cushion case, beads-of-rice bracelet and distinctive SUB design made them instantly recognisable, both on the wrist and in the imagination of collectors.
Like many Swiss watchmakers, DOXA faced a difficult period during the quartz crisis and through changes in ownership. A new chapter began in 1997 when the Jenny family acquired the brand, bringing it back with a renewed focus on its dive-watch heritage. The SUB line was relaunched in the early 2000s, reconnecting DOXA with the watches that made its name.
Today, DOXA’s modern range continues to build around the SUB identity. Models such as the SUB 200, SUB 200T, SUB 300 and SUB 300T offer different expressions of the same core idea: a functional Swiss dive watch with distinctive character and genuine history.
DOXA is not a brand trying to be everything to everyone. Its strength lies in focus. The brand is best understood through the world of dive watches, where legibility, timing, water resistance and usability matter more than decoration.
For someone choosing a DOXA today, the appeal is not only that it looks different. It is that the difference comes from function. The orange dial, the SUB case shape, the dive bezel and the tool-watch proportions all connect back to a brand that helped define what a professional dive watch could be.
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Frequently Asked Questions
The DOXA SUB collection is one of the brand’s most recognised watch families, known for its strong connection to professional diving and its distinctive, highly legible design.
With bold dial colours, robust case construction, and a clear focus on underwater readability, the SUB collection has become a favourite among dive-watch enthusiasts who appreciate both heritage and practical performance.
The DOXA SUB 200 is a versatile entry point into the SUB collection, offering a vintage-inspired dive-watch design with everyday wearability.
The SUB 300 is closely connected to DOXA’s original professional dive-watch heritage, with a more distinctive case shape and specialist diving character. The SUB 300T offers a more robust feel, with higher water resistance and a stronger tool-watch presence, making it ideal for those who prefer a more technical dive watch.
DOXA is strongly associated with orange dials because the colour became one of the brand’s signature design choices for diving watches. Orange was chosen for its strong visibility and distinctive appearance, helping the watch stand out clearly underwater and on the wrist.
Today, the orange DOXA dial is one of the brand’s most recognisable features, especially across the SUB collection. It gives DOXA watches a bold identity that is instantly linked to the brand’s dive-watch heritage.
It is always best to buy a DOXA watch from an authorised and reputable retailer, as this ensures your watch is genuine, correctly supplied, and supported with proper aftercare.
At WATCHO, you can explore DOXA watches online or visit our boutiques in Richmond upon Thames or Milton Keynes. Buying from an authorised retailer also gives you the reassurance of a valid manufacturer’s warranty, extended warranty support, and access to reliable after-sales care.

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